A mattress accumulates more than you’d think: dead skin cells, sweat, body oils, dust mites, and whatever else manages to get past the sheets. Without periodic cleaning, all of that builds up in the fabric and foam, which contributes to allergies, odor, and a shorter mattress lifespan.
The good news is that mattress cleaning is straightforward when done right. A thorough cleaning takes a couple of hours of mostly hands-off time and uses supplies most people already have at home. Done a few times a year, it keeps the mattress fresher, the bedroom less dusty, and the mattress itself in better shape for longer.
This guide walks through deep cleaning and spot cleaning, plus the maintenance habits that prevent most stains and odors in the first place.
Key Takeaways
- Vacuum the mattress thoroughly, deodorize with baking soda, and spot-treat any stains; deep cleaning takes a couple of hours total.
- Most stains come out with cold water and mild soap if treated promptly; avoid hot water and harsh chemicals.
- A quality mattress protector prevents most cleaning needs in the first place and extends mattress lifespan substantially.
- If you suspect bed bugs, mold, or a persistent odor that cleaning doesn’t resolve, professional inspection or treatment may be needed.
Why Mattress Cleaning Matters
Mattresses collect dust mites, dander, sweat, body oils, and dead skin cells through normal use. Even with a fitted sheet, much of this works its way into the mattress over time. The accumulation contributes to allergy symptoms, can cause persistent odor, and degrades mattress materials faster than they would otherwise wear.
Periodic cleaning also gives you a chance to inspect the mattress for damage, wear, or signs that it’s reaching the end of its useful life. A mattress you never look at closely can hide developing problems.
What You Need Before You Start
Most of the supplies are probably already in your house.
- Vacuum with an upholstery attachment
- Baking soda (a full box for a queen-size mattress)
- Clean white cloths or towels
- Mild dish soap or laundry detergent
- Hydrogen peroxide (for biological stains)
- Spray bottle
- Cold water
- Optional: essential oil (like lavender) to add scent to the baking soda
Don’t use bleach, ammonia, hot water, or harsh chemical cleaners. These can damage mattress materials, set stains, and leave residue you’ll be sleeping on.
Step 1: Strip the Bed Completely
Remove all bedding: sheets, mattress protector, mattress pad, and any blankets that touch the mattress. Wash everything on the hottest cycle the fabric tolerates, since washing kills dust mites and removes accumulated body oils. Check care labels for anything that needs cold water or delicate cycling.
While the bedding is in the wash, you have the mattress fully exposed and ready for the next steps.
Step 2: Vacuum the Entire Surface
Using the upholstery attachment, vacuum the entire top surface of the mattress slowly. Pay extra attention to seams, edges, piping, and any tufted areas where debris accumulates. Move methodically across the surface so you don’t miss spots.
Flip the mattress on its side (or have a helper do this) and vacuum the bottom and sides as well. Dust mites, dander, and dust collect on all surfaces, not just the top.
If you have a vacuum with a HEPA filter, this step removes a substantial amount of allergens. If you have severe allergies, repeat this vacuuming step every few weeks, even between deep cleanings.
Step 3: Spot-Treat Any Stains
Different stains need different approaches. The universal rule: blot, don’t rub. Rubbing pushes the stain deeper into the fabric and spreads it across a larger area.
Sweat or yellow stains. Mix one cup of hydrogen peroxide, three tablespoons of baking soda, and a small drop of dish soap. Apply with a clean cloth, blot, then let dry. Repeat if needed.
Blood stains. Use cold water only (hot water sets blood stains). Hydrogen peroxide directly on the stain often works. Blot with a cold, damp cloth and let the area dry.
Urine stains. Blot up as much liquid as possible with towels. Spray with a mix of equal parts cold water and white vinegar, blot, then sprinkle baking soda over the area and let it sit for several hours before vacuuming.
Vomit or other biological stains. Same as urine: blot, treat with vinegar and water, baking soda over the area, vacuum after it dries.
General food or drink stains. Cold water and a drop of dish soap on a cloth. Blot from the outside of the stain toward the center to avoid spreading.
For all stains, work the cleaner into the surface, but don’t soak the mattress. Excess moisture is harder to dry out and can lead to mold inside the mattress.
Step 4: Deodorize With Baking Soda
After spot treatment is done and any wet areas have dried, sprinkle baking soda generously across the entire top of the mattress. A full box for a queen-size mattress is about right. If you want to add a light scent, mix a few drops of an essential oil like lavender into the baking soda before sprinkling.
Let the baking soda sit for several hours. The longer it sits, the more odor it absorbs. Many people leave it on while they’re at work or overnight in another bed.
Then vacuum the baking soda thoroughly with the upholstery attachment. Take your time; baking soda settles into the fabric, and a quick pass leaves a lot behind.
Step 5: Let It Air Out
If the weather allows, open windows in the bedroom for several hours to give the mattress fresh air. Sunlight on a mattress (if you can flip it or position it where light reaches) helps kill remaining dust mites and reduces odor.
Don’t put bedding back on a mattress that still feels damp from spot treatment. Trapped moisture under the sheets and protector can lead to mold growth inside the mattress.
Step 6: Replace the Protector and Bedding
Once the mattress is fully dry and the freshly washed bedding is ready, put it all back on. If your mattress protector is more than a year or two old or shows wear, this is a good time to replace it. Our roundup of mattress protectors for allergies covers what to look for.
For households dealing with allergies, a mattress encasement that fully covers the mattress (rather than just the top) provides more protection. Encasements are especially valuable in homes concerned about bed bugs.
How to Maintain a Clean Mattress
Deep cleaning every few months is reasonable for most households. A few habits make it easier and less frequent.
Use a quality protector from day one. This is the single highest-impact step. A waterproof, breathable protector keeps spills, sweat, and body oils from reaching the mattress at all. Washable protectors can be cleaned weekly with the sheets.
Wash sheets weekly. Sweat and skin oils transfer through sheets onto the mattress. Weekly washing in hot water (when fabric tolerates) keeps the load on the mattress lower.
No eating or drinking in bed. Spills are the most common cause of stubborn mattress stains. The bedroom-only-for-sleep rule eliminates most of this risk.
Keep pets off the mattress (or use a washable cover). Pet dander, oils, and the occasional accident all add to the mattress soil load. If pets sleep on the bed, a washable blanket cover over the protected mattress catches most of it.
Rotate the mattress every few months. Most modern mattresses don’t flip, but rotating 180 degrees evens out wear and distributes the soil load instead of concentrating it on one section.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Using too much water or cleaner. A soaked mattress is hard to dry and prone to mold. Use the minimum moisture needed, and blot rather than scrub.
Hot water on biological stains. Hot water sets blood, urine, and vomit stains. Always use cold water for these.
Bleach or ammonia. Both damage mattress materials and leave residue you’ll breathe in while sleeping. Stick to mild soap, baking soda, vinegar, and hydrogen peroxide.
Rubbing instead of blotting. Rubbing pushes the stain deeper and spreads it across a larger area. Always blot from outside the stain toward the center.
Replace bedding before the mattress dries. Trapped moisture is one of the main causes of mold inside mattresses. Make sure spot-treated areas are fully dry before sheets go back on.
Skipping the protector. Cleaning a mattress takes hours. Preventing the mess with a protector takes a few dollars per night spread across the mattress’s lifespan and avoids most cleaning needs entirely.
When to Call a Professional
Some situations need more than DIY cleaning.
- Suspected bed bugs (small reddish-brown insects, dark spots in mattress seams, or unexplained itchy bites in lines or clusters)
- Visible mold inside the mattress (musty smell, dark patches, especially in basement bedrooms or after water damage)
- Persistent odor that doesn’t respond to multiple baking soda treatments
- Deep stains in foam or upholstery that haven’t responded to standard treatment
- Mattresses with substantial water damage from a leak, flood, or other major spill
For bed bugs, especially, professional treatment is generally needed. For severe mold or water damage, replacing the mattress is often more practical than trying to restore it. The cost of a replacement is usually less than the risk of sleeping on a compromised surface.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I deep clean my mattress? A few times a year is reasonable for most households. Allergy sufferers, pet owners, and parents of young children may benefit from more frequent cleaning. Households with a quality mattress protector can extend the interval since less dust reaches the mattress.
Can I use a steam cleaner? Cautiously. Steam can disinfect and lift surface dirt, but excessive moisture deep in the mattress causes mold. If you use steam, use it briefly and follow up with thorough air drying.
Does baking soda really work for odor? Yes, baking soda absorbs odor molecules effectively. The key is leaving it on long enough (several hours minimum) and vacuuming it up thoroughly. A quick pass leaves both the baking soda and the odor behind.
What about urine on the mattress? Blot up as much liquid as possible immediately. Treat with a mix of cold water and white vinegar, then baking soda after it dries. The faster you treat it, the less likely it is to leave a stain or lasting odor.
Can I machine wash a mattress topper? Most toppers cannot go in a washer; check care labels. Memory foam in particular shouldn’t be soaked. Spot clean with mild soap and water, and air dry. Some toppers have removable, washable covers, which makes cleaning much easier.
How do I prevent dust mites? Wash sheets weekly in hot water, use a dust-mite-resistant mattress encasement, vacuum the mattress regularly with a HEPA-filtered vacuum, and keep bedroom humidity moderate (high humidity favors dust mites). The same approach helps with how you wash pillows without ruining them, since pillows accumulate dust mites even faster than mattresses.
